Blog 3: Portuguese Explorers and New Zealand’s North Island
Updated: Jun 30
JOURNEY 2 - SERIES 1 - BLOG 3 - A PART OF 3 BLOGS IN SERIES 1 - Reading time: 5 Mins 30 Secs
First Sighting New Zealand Mt Egmont (Taranaki)
One of the most intriguing features of the Vallard Atlas is the depiction of an island situated off the western coastline of “Illa do Magna,” believed by some researchers to represent New Zealand’s North Island.
An important feature on the Illa do magna map is an island shown off the west coast of the North Island. If Mendonca approached Mt Egmont (Taranaki) from the west, the volcano surrounded by low-lying land could appear as an island. Mendonca did not have the aid of a telescope. The Vallard Map shows that part of the western coast of the North Island, north of Cape Egmont, was mapped. Cape Egmont is the westernmost point of Taranaki. Mendonca’s carrack and/or smaller ships may have sailed north for a distance before deciding to turn back. The currents and winds along the northwestern coast of the North Island are difficult and have resulted in many shipwrecks over time. This discussion adds another dimension to New Zealand's origin story: Were the Portuguese in New Zealand first? These findings continue to shape debates surrounding New Zealand's First Settlers. The evidence also contributes to broader discussions about New Zealand Early European Explorers.
Mendonca decided to sail south of Mt Egmont (Taranaki). The Vallard Map shows the coastline running east and eventually turning back toward the southwest before ending abruptly at a prominent round headland. This headland matches the shape of Cape Terawhiti, at the extreme southwestern point of the North Island.
Through Cook Strait and Wellington Harbour
Behind this headland, Mendonca’s chart depicts a large, deeply indented bay running in a northerly direction, the harbour of New Zealand’s capital city, Wellington. Early Māori sightings report a single vessel with great white sails off the coast of New Zealand. The question arises whether Mendonca’s ship was alone, and what happened to the other three vessels. Were the other ships destroyed at Warrambool or Gabo Island in Australia or somewhere else on the southwestern coast of the North Island?
Mapping the Eastern Coastline
After leaving Port Nicholson harbour (Wellington Harbour), the map evidence indicates the Portuguese carrack sailed southeast until it reached another prominent headland where the land turned abruptly north. This would be Cape Palliser at the southeastern extremity of the North Island. The Vallard Map shows representations resembling Hawke Bay, Mahia Peninsula, Poverty Bay, Young Nick’s Head, East cape and the Bay of Plenty.
Heading north along the Wairarapa coast, there are several errors of detail, perhaps because the ship was out to sea to avoid dangerous currents close to shore, and Mendonca had no telescope. Some coastal peaks were mistaken for islands. Commentators of the period indicate the overall coastal configuration demonstrates a good level of accuracy.
The pronounced curve of Hawkes Bay is easily identifiable, along with Capes Turnagain and Kidnappers. At the northern end of the Vallard Map’s Hawke Bay is the prominent Mahia Peninsula, which, while narrowly connected to the mainland, is drawn as an island. A smaller island off its southern tip is Portland Island.
The final deeply indented bay shown on this coast is Poverty Bay. Accurately depicted is Young Nicks Head. Next, Mendonca’s chart depicts a very large headland jutting out towards the northeast. This represents East Cape, with a mountain range at the cape’s northern extremity mistaken for an island. Beyond this cape towards the northwest is a large semicircular bay corresponding in stylized form to the Bay of Plenty.
There is an island on the Vallard Map off the Bay of Plenty coast named Illa do Sal. In Portuguese, “Sal” means salt. Later, James Cook named this White Island for the same reason Mendonca named it Sal. The volcano produces large amounts of gypsum, a white mineral salt resembling common salt. The island’s shimmering white slopes led Mendonca to associate it with salt, a highly prized preservative commodity during this period.
Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf
North of the Bay of Plenty is a small promontory or headland representing a truncated Coromandel Peninsula and an offshore island. This corresponds in both shape and position to the mountainous Great Barrier Island. The island seems to have been drawn on a larger scale. The two harbours on the island’s sheltered western coast are shown in some detail, suggesting Mendonca may have moored there. The harbour of Tryphena, at the southern end of Great Barrier Island, and Blind Bay, further north, are easily recognizable. The Hauraki Gulf and its approaches are littered with small islands. The line of islets between Great Barrier and the mainland may represent the many existing islands.
At the top of the island, the chart depicts a narrow neck of land with a clearly defined harbour on each side. This could be the isthmus on which Auckland now stands, with the Waitemata harbour on the eastern side and the Manukau harbour on the western side. The harbours are correctly shown relative to Great Barrier Island. If this is the case, did Mendonca’s men land on the eastern shores and march inland to sight the harbour on the west? Climbing one of the extinct volcanic cones would have provided panoramic views of the region.
The Vallard Map’s Illa do Magna ends just north of here. The long Northland peninsula is scarcely shown. Mendonca likely exited the Hauraki Gulf by traveling north, over 100 kilometres from the fast-receding mainland coast.
At this point, the Northland peninsula veers northwest, so the land in this direction would have been out of sight, particularly if the journey began at night. In northern Northland, the land is low-lying and not visible from the sea. Mendonca would have missed seeing and therefore mapping Northland since he headed direct north. Northland has been added to the map for completeness.
Return Voyage to Portugal
After clearing Great Barrier Island, Mendonca’s priority was to set course for the Portuguese base in Malacca, Malaysia. By then, it would be around one year since he left Malacca, likely early autumn in the South Pacific. He would be sailing at the right time to take advantage of the strengthening southeast trade winds to return to Malacca and then India. Mendonca needed to reach Goa, the major Portuguese naval base for the Far East, by September 1523 to avoid the contrary winds of the winter monsoon. Assuming he left New Zealand in March 1523, six months should have been enough time to cover the distance.
In January 1990, a gardener in Cape Town’s Table Bay unearthed a flat stone inscribed in Portuguese, translated to English:
“The Vitoria, Captain Cristovao de Mendonca, arrived here on the 26th Ma (March or May) 1524. A coin is buried here. All well. God be praised.”
During this period, it was common for ship captains to write ‘postal stones’ as they rounded the Cape to register their movements. Portuguese records show Mendonca took over the Vitoria in Goa to sail back to Lisbon.
Mendonca reached Lisbon, where he was rewarded for his services with a lucrative overseas posting by King John III. He became the commander of the fort and city of Hormuz, at the entrance of the Persian Gulf, allowing him to earn significant private wealth.
Mendonca died from disease in 1532.
This completes Series 1: Did Portuguese Explorers Reach New Zealand Before Abel Tasman? and we invite you to join us for Series 2: Evidence Supporting the Vallard Atlas
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